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The first few entries are notes from the Nimblewill
Nomad's trip to Campo, California, which is the starting point for Odyssey 2008 trek of the PCT
Thursday--April 17,
2008
I manage to get my things together and loaded into the van, say
good-bye to sweetheart, Dwinda, then a little before five in the
evening Gordon and I depart for Campo, California.
I've never, ever lugged so much "stuff" along on any backpacking
trip before--the obvious luxury of having support. Gordon had told
me to bring what I thought we might need. Oh my, have I taken
advantage of that offer! Folding table and camp chairs, Coleman
lantern and two-burner stove. Free-standing tarp awning, folding
toilet seat plus shovel. Kitchen, complete with spacious cooler. A
separate bin with pots, pans, cups, plates and utensils. Water jugs,
clothes lines and clothes pins. Oh, and an extra large bin for
"town" clothes, books, maps, trail data, o.t.c. meds, and spare
gear. Oh yes, it's gonna take a pretty strong wind to blow us off
the road!
At the Missouri/Oklahoma line we hit a driving rain storm, which
lasts for over two hours. Finally working our way through it we
reach Oklahoma City around one in the morning. There we stop at a
Wal-Mart where Gordon crashes in the van and I find a spot between
stacked palettes of cypress mulch, and in stealth mode, roll out my
sleeping bag and call it a day.
Friday--April 18, 2008
We get on the road at nine and manage to make good time into
Albuquerque, where we stop for the night at Greg Barnes' place just
off the interstate. Greg is a dear friend from my Appalachian Trail
hiking days and we've managed to stay in touch over the years. Greg
was living in San Diego at the time Sheltowee and I
completed our respective 2002 treks, and he came out to Point Loma
to help us celebrate that grand day.
It was great seeing Greg again, meeting his father, Ron, and his
girlfriend, Anita. Thanks, Greg, Ron, and Anita for a memorable time
in Albuquerque!
Saturday--April 19, 2008
We manage to get out from Albuquerque a little after ten. In just
awhile I call Tom and Donna Bombaci, trail angels who befriended me
on my CDT trek through Grants last year. We arrange to get together
at Denny's, where Tom and Donna treat--once again. Thanks Tom and
Donna, for your continued kindness and generosity!
We head on west around one, then pick up an hour at the Arizona
border. We're buffeted by hard wind all afternoon.
So, today we don't make so many miles, rather, we enjoy the company
of dear friends. Around nine we reach the rest area at Sentinel,
Arizona. Gordon's at home in the van; I pitch behind some scrub on
the desert floor where I try clearing the spot of pricklies and
thorns. I finally give up and just drop on the hardpack--don't want
to puncture my new Therma-a-Rest first night out.
Sunday--April 20, 2008
Dan calls around seven to inform us that he's taking a zero day due
to blistered feet. Starting a hike on the trail can be
trying. Starting out on the pavement, especially if the tarmac is
sizzling, can be pure torture to tender feet. At the gas station in
Dateland I manage to get a rise out of the kid running the place
when I casually comment that it looks like rain.
We cross into California a little before nine, reaching Campo around
noon. From Campo we continue on west to Potrero and the little
county park where Dan and I camped during our '02 outbound, and
where he's now holed up for the day.
Monday--April 21, 2008
We arrived Potrero Campground in good order around noon
yesterday. Dan was sitting with his feet up, in the company of his
good friend, Doug Daily. Doug's a school chum of Dan's, who now
lives south of L.A. He came down to San Diego, Point Loma, to
celebrate with Dan and me when we completed our respective 2002
treks.
In an email sent me Thursday, Dan said, "Yesterday afternoon I
blistered the balls of my feet, they were very tender today and I
only covered 7 painful miles.
I am in Lemon Grove tonight, which is where we took the picture in
the rain with the giant lemon and the slogan, Best Weather in the
World."
Friday he made seven more painful miles into Jamul. From there, Doug
picked him up and brought him to the campground where he was resting
the day.
This morning we get out, to shuttle Dan back to Jamul. The day's
rest plus a little foot doctoring from yours truly, "Doctor Kill Me
Quicker," has Dan in pretty good shape to continue on. We set him on
his way in good spirits around 10:30. Gordon and I check on him from
time to time, patch his tender feet--one more time, and he makes the
15+ miles on down to Barrett's Junction just fine.
Dan's feet are definitely on the mend now, and I'm confident that
tomorrow he'll be able to hike the remaining 15 miles on into Campo
and the border. From there, On Wednesday, we'll head north together,
on the PCT, on our journey to Canada.
Tuesday--April 22, 2008
The Potrero County Campground is a fine facility and we return there
for another night.
The morning dawns another cold, clear, day in the desert. A final
doctoring on Sheltowee's feet and we're ready to go. We're
back to Barrett's Junction a little after eight and Dan's on his
way, his final roadwalk day to close the loop, from the old
lighthouse at Point Loma to the border just south of Campo.
We've found an inexpensive little campground just west of Campo to
move to this evening. We pick Dan up at noon and head there for
lunch. After the afternoon cools down a bit we put him back on the
road and at a little before five he's at the border and the monument
marking the beginning/terminus of the PCT.
Wednesday--April 23,
2008
Trail Day--001
Trail Mile--21
Location--Lake Morena Campground, Morena Village, California
Let
the adventure begin!
Dan, Gordon, and I are up and moving at seven. A dear mutual
hiking friend, Kevin Slider Reardon, from Berlin,
Connecticut, flew into San Diego, has joined us and will be heading
north with us this morning. Gordon gets us loaded and we reach the
monument at eight--the beginning of the PCT, at the Mexican
border. Other northbounders are here, along with dear friends and
well-wishers, WeatherCarrot, Yogi and Squatch.
Picture-taking time over, packs finally shouldered, by 8:30, Dan,
Kevin, and I are on our way. Southern California, where we'll be
hiking the next number of days is pretty much desert--bare rock,
dusty sand, sagebrush, other assorted scrub and grass (all sporting
their individual puncture hardware).
At 2.2 miles the trail crosses SR94, where "X" marks the spot. Here,
my path of 2002, "From Sea to Shining Sea" meets my path now. My
odyssey paths will cross one more time, clear up in the Columbia
Gorge, where I hiked east/west, 2004, and west/east 2006, Lewis and
Clark National Historic Trail, at Bridge of the Gods, Cascade Locks,
Oregon. Gordon is here and in his glory, big smile, "Want a cold
Gatorade!" exclaims Gordon. This hike is going to be a different
hike, not like the long, lonely days on the CDT, or the equally long
noisy days on the open road. I'm pretty sure there'll be
considerably more elaboration concerning this topic as we journey
north.
The hike today will remain a particularly memorable one,
what with the sendoff at the border, and now towards day's end, who
should come hiking down the trail to meet me other than Honey
and Bear. We're in to finish the day at Lake Morena
Campgrounds early evening.
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"The only certain freedom's is departure."
[Robert Frost]
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Thursday--April 24, 2008
Trail Day--002
Trail Mile--12.6/0034
Location--Fred Canyon Road/Cibbets Flat, thence to Lake
Morena Campground
This is gonna be hard getting used to--bacon and eggs,
coffee with refills for breakfast. Lunch at mid-day trail
crossing, water spigot (five gallon can in van) for afternoon
recharge, then hot two- or three-course evening meal. We'll not
have these luxuries each and every day, but for most of the way
through California it'll be the daily routine--in addition to
the
20-25 mile days on the trail.
Today we meet a number of southbound hikers. They've all skipped
north to hike back to Lake Morena Campground, location of this
year's ADZPCTKO, an acronym for Annual Day Zero Pacific Crest
Trail Kickoff, which takes place this weekend. Having support,
we can keep trekking on north, then return this evening (and
tomorrow evening) to meet fellow thru-hikers and enjoy the
fellowship of the festival. We'll actually be taking a day off,
a zero-mile day (already) to spend Saturday at ADZPCTKO.
So far we've met fellow hikers JB, Freefall,
Coyote, Ben, Sauerkraut, Miss Sunshine, Heasy,
Potential 178, Montana, Brit, Hiking Cowboy, Eddy, Mattress,
Tomato, A-Train, Nafta, Teatree, Hiking Bear, Ducky, Panama,
Whoda his son, and Whoda's friend, Anime,
and Neighbor Dave. As we trek on north, Morena Lake
backed by Morena Butte are at a distance and behind us now, but
they're still the predominant features in my camera format
screen.
Early evening we arrive Fred Canyon Road from where we descend
to Cibbets Flat Campground. There, Gordon is waiting to whisk us
back to Lake Morena Campground.
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"Finite to fail, but infinite to venture."
[Emily Dickinson]
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Friday--April 25, 2008
Trail Day--003
Trail Mile--19.6/0053
Location--Pioneer Mail Trailhead, thence to Lake
Morena Campground
Folks are beginning to arive Lake Morena Campground for
ADZPCTKO. Honey and Bear have invited
us into their campsite, as the campground is totally
packed. The evening last was noisy to begin, but settled
down nicely. I was pretty much pooped and was off to
slumberland in no time.
Well, Dan's feet have really come around; no more
pain, the blisters hardening quite nicely. My feet are
fine, but I am suffering the least discomfort from shin
splints, an almost-always, common malady when beginning
a new journey. Kevin was rocking along nicely until
mid-day, when he experienced a "blowout." Blisters at
the ball of both big toes and both heels. Time for
Doctor Kill Me Quicker to take over again. Slider's
blisters popped, disinfected, and taped, we're off
again.
The hike today takes us up, and up some more, to
5,000 feet, then to over 6,000. The climb is gentle,
however, and the treadway the most forgiving I've hiked
on in recent memory.
As we climb, the trail ventures to the very edge of
the eastern crest escarpment, providing breathtaking,
panoramic vistas--to the desert floor 4,000 feet below,
then beyond to the Salton Sea, dancing on the far
horizon.
At 5,000 feet we have left (for the time being) the
desert harshness, to enter the most cool, shady canopy
of longleaf pine. We remain near 6,000 feet for the trek
on into Pioneer Mail, where Gordon awaits, and we're
soon on our way back down the mountain to Lake Morena
Campground.
It's been a very satisfying day for us; we're all
happily content.
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"To begin, begin."
[William Wordsworth]
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Saturday--April 26,
2008
Trail Day--004
Trail Mile--00/0053
Location--Lake Morena Campground
Another night (and a day) at the campground. ADZPCTKO is in full
swing; the campground a blaze of color--tents everywhere. We'll take
the day off and enjoy the company of old friends, and make many new.
Pulling in last evening, first dear friends--Jolene JojoSmiley
Koby/Burly and her husband, Frank Nomad '98 Burley. Honey
and Bear, Rascal, Sly, Troll and
son Oblivious, Billy Goat, Yogi, Sam I Am are here. And
vendors, Gossamer Gear (Glen Van Peski), LEKI USA (Dan Ducey of
Elevation Sales Group), Six Moon Designs (Ron Moat), Blackwater
Press/PCT Atlas (Erik Erik The Black Asorson).
It's such a joy, really a blessing seeing Glen from Gossamer Gear
again. He has a new pack for me, a prototype Murmur that he's
stitched up himself. After he closes down this evening, the pack's
mine. And an amazing piece of gear it is, full harness with shoulder
straps and hip belt, 2200+c.i. carrying capacity--seven ounces; yes
folks, seven ounces!
In the evening, Honey and Bear prepare a sendoff
feast for us. It's a grand affair. Then, as always, and too-soon,
the inevitable time comes--time for the hugs, for the sad good-byes.
We've got a 24 to knock out tomorrow and it's nearly an hour's drive
back up the mountain to Pioneer Mail Trailhead, so we've got to get
back there tonight and get camp set in preparation for an early
departure tomorrow.
Oh my, it's sure been a grand time at ADZPCTKO. Thanks all, to you
who've worked so diligently to make it all happen, to make it a
grand, memorable affair.
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"Ask for the ancient paths where the good way
is; and walk in it and find rest for your soul"
[Jeremiah 6:16]
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Sunday--April 27, 2008
Trail Day--005
Trail Mile--24.9/0078
Location--Scissors Crossing
We break camp and manage to get going a bit before seven. The trail
trends generally north today along and just below the ridge. Wind
generated by the rising desert heat knocks us around all morning,
but the buffeting is well worth it--breathtaking views down the
eastern slope, to the Colorado Desert floor some 4,000 feet
below. Yesterday, at near 6,000 feet the trail wound around
Stephenson, Monument, and Garnet Peaks. It's interesting how the
rain shadow, a wall in the sky created by these towering Laguna
Mountains, prevents the earth-enriching water-laden clouds from
passing. All along today, as the trail continues by this eastern
escarpment is this stark contrast so evident.
Gordon is waiting for us at six miles out where the trail
winds back to meet the road. I drag an old wool blanket out of the
chaparral, the last of countless blankets left behind by illegals
flooding across the border from Mexico--a souvenir from the desert
segment of this trail. At the van, we make sandwiches, then water-up
for the remainder of the day.
There's a water tank at around mid-afternoon, where we meet
Running Feather who's also headed north. I've enough water
to make it in so I hike on by, and down to Scissors Crossing, our
destination for the day. Along the way I pass Bebop from
Georgia, and Gil and Ziv from Israel. Also, in a short while I meet
Ace. He's down here from Alaska taking in some of the best the lower
48 has to offer.
Both Dan and Kevin are having doggie problems, all caused by
the sand, heat, and these early long miles. Fortunately, I've
managed to avoid the usual hike start-up issues, save my minor shin
splints, which are no better today, but no worse.
It's been a long, hot hiking day. Great to see Gordon and
the van. Cheeseburgers and pasta for supper, prepared by Chef Dan
and Chef Kevin. Ummm-umm!
"Happiness has to do with
struggling and enduring and
accomplishing."
[George Sheehan]
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Monday--April 28, 2008
Trail Day--006
Trail Mile--23.8/0101
Location--Barrel Spring
A difficult night at Scissors Crossing. Traffic all night, heavy
trucks hissing their air brakes at the stop sign. The campsite was
fine enough, under a dying old cottonwood at least seven feet in
diameter. Plenty of sand (say dirt) to go around. The filth and grit
gets into everything. Goes right through shoes and socks. Feet turn
completely black, what with a little sweat added to the mix.
My back is a little stiff, legs and feet the least heavy and
burdened, but don't you know--this old jitney will soon be up to
speed and clanking right along.
I've long heard about the drastic temperature swings in the desert;
now I'm a believer. 29 degrees in my tent this morning, and before
the day's over, the mercury soars to over 97 degrees.
At lower elevations, below 3-4,000 feet, the desert is
totally a-bloom, bright, lush tints, every shade of Roy G. Biv. Yellows
and whites predominate, dabs of green now and again are
intermixed--grasses always struggling to make a show.
I'm the last one out this morning. The trail leads straight
into switchbacks. Up and up we go. As the trail winds out and back,
ever climbing, does the desert vegetation also change. Now comes
barrel, ocotillo, and prickly pear cactus, all in bloom, and many
other varieties, their names I know not. Dainty little wildflowers,
so small and fragile, happy and prospering in this harshness. It's a
miracle, no other explanation, just a miracle to behold. Ah, and I
am here to see, to wonder at it all.
Another long, hot day. Much climbing again, and the rocky
downs--and the heat. What a treat and what a surprise to find water
running, filling the tank at Barrel Spring.
Gordon is waiting at the road, by the gate. I help him set
camp then head for the spring tank for a cool splashdown. Another
long, hot day. No barking doggies, but they're sure growling.
"People see God every day, they
just don't recognize him."
[Pearl Bailey]
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Tuesday--April 29,
2008
Trail--Day 007
Trail Mile--9.2/0111
Location--Warner Springs, Warner Springs Ranch
A short day, the trail bops along, no big pulls or downs. At lower
elevations now, the small stream, San Ysidro Creek, actually has
water in it.
Many more wildflowers, countless varieties line the trail today. I
stop often to marvel at their childlike happiness, share their joy,
and take their picture.
The feature for today is Eagle Rock, an interesting, monument-like
natural formation, shaped like an eagle with wings outstretched, as
in just landing or preparing for takeoff. Great photo ops here on
another perfectly clear day in the southwest desert.
For the past number of days, Dan's been telling us, quite
emphatically might I add, that there's a Burger King just around the
corner. Ha, late morning, here comes Steve, local trail angel,
loaded down with bags and a cooler. "You guys like a cheeseburger
and fries--some sweet tea?" asks Steve, big grin. I'm not believing
this; Slider's not believing this. "Burger King, right?"
asks Dan. "Burger King," says Steve. I look at Slider. Slider
looks back at me--bewildered--and shrugs. Time for burgers and
fries--from Burger King, compliments of Steve. Friends, there's just
no way I could make this stuff up; thanks Steve! Seems Dan knew you
were on your way, he just didn't know when you'd get here!
It's a short hike on down to Warner Springs. We're in by
one. The trail skirts around, but we cut through town, and on the
way, take an overnight at the grand Warner Springs Ranch.
In the evening, oh yes, steak and baked potato at the ranch
restaurant.
Fine ending to a memorable day.
"Come forth into the light of
things. Let Nature be your teacher."
[William Wordsworth]
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Wednesday--April 30,
2008
Trail Day--008
Trail Mile--15.6/0126
Location--Chihuahua Valley Road, "Mike's Retreat-on-the-Hill"
Bunkhouse
A grand stay at Warner Springs Ranch; very accommodating folks, old
place but neat and clean. Super supper--steak and baked potato,
pure, high octane hiker jet fuel.
We'd hiked the road in yesterday, a little longer route than the
official trail around, so this morning it's the roadwalk on around
and back out to where the trail crosses again, about a mile. Gordon
is here to make sure we don't trek on past, as the crossing is
somewhat obscure.
Ever since hiking together, our respective transcontinental treks in
2002, Sheltowee and I have had an ongoing contest as to who
could pick up the most change along the road shoulders. We both got
skunked this road-around, but I did pick up a stainless steel
round-head Phillips sheetmetal screw--another souvenir for the
mantle at home.
Yesterday I'd received a somewhat urgent email from my Webmaster,
Cywiz. Her concern: "California wildfires ... broke out
Saturday in the Angeles Forest (#6 location on the Forestry PCT
Trail map). The area of evacuation right now seems to be in and
around the foothills of Sierra Madre. There is much talk about the
pollution of the air being vast in its outreach, and you, Slider
and Sheltowee will be walking through the Angeles
Forrest very soon." We have, indeed, heard about the fires and can
see the far away cloud-haze they are creating. We're in no danger
now but wouldn't be the least surprised to find the trail closed
north of us.
Out a short distance, and in just moments I meet Big, and
we hike together on up to a trailside camp. Here I wait for
Sheltowee and Slider. We hike most the remainder of
the day together, making good time, considering. Both continue to
have day-to-day feet issues, healing blisters and tenderness. At
Agua Caliente we have the first challenge, as to keeping our feet
dry. The crossing appears to be, but is a not so easy rock-hop. Dan
has to stop and wring out his right sock. Ha, yesterday he washed
his shoes and spent 45 minutes tending them at the dryer in Warner
Springs.
The trail climbs on up the canyon, presenting many more rock-hops,
each crossing being a little narrower. Here in this ribbon oasis,
Agua Caliente Canyon, does there present such remarkable
contrast--this lush, green coolness, to the arid, sunburned brown of
the surrounding desert. Dainty little flowers, tall grasses,
gallant, century-old oak--just a remarkable pathway up and
through. Ah, but with an occasional prickly pear cactus intermixed
to remind us we're not far from the desert.
As we hike along, do we meet and pass other northbounders trekking
out of Warner Springs, first Christina, then Vanity Fair,
and her daughter, Wind Breaker.
We stop for lunch near Lost Valley Spring, elevation 4,450
feet. Also relaxing here for lunch are Grandpa Kilt and
Spike.
Out from lunch, descending, do we enter the most intense desert
burnover. This fire occurred years ago, but the barren desolation
remains, exposed boulders and rock, pumice-like dusty sand, charred,
blackened snags. The entire scene is depressing, forbidding,
certainly not designed to gladden the heart.
Later we climb again to meet up with Spider and E.T.
(Energetic Turtle). Now, late afternoon we arrive the
little oasis, a weekend retreat in the desert, up on the mountain,
called Mike's. Mike isn't here, but he's left a sign on the gate
welcoming PCT thru-hikers. What a blessing to get in, as the wind
has come up, has turned hard and steady, and it's becoming very
cold.
Many other northbounders have congregated on Mike's screened-in
porch. Sheltowee, Slider, and I look around and
find the bunkhouse. It's unoccupied, complete with three bunks and a
cot--and a door that closes snugly. We carry the Coleman lantern
down from the van and in no time we're comfortable and secure for
the night.
"Let me enjoy the earth no less because
the all-enacting light
that fashioned forth its loveliness had
other aims than my delight."
[Thomas Hardy]
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Thursday--May 1, 2008
Trail Day--009
Trail Mile--24.2/0150
Location--SR74, Pines to Palms Highway, thence to Idyllwild
A very comfortable night at Mike's. Got down to 42 degrees this
morning, but we slept just fine in Mike's bunkhouse. Thanks Mike,
whomever and wherever you are.
Today is a long bop-it-along 24 mile day. Lots of side-slabbing
around many lesser knobs and crowns. Where the trail follows the
south-and/or west-facing slopes, the treadway is hot-hot sand and
rock, requiring much concentration--and slow, frustrated
churning. We stop often to cool our trail-weary doggies.
Along, we meet some new folks, Hardcore and Latecomer,
and Brian and Tangent, Later we pass Christina, Alien
March, Grandma Kilt, Spider and ET,
and Big.
In some of these long stretches where there's no water anywhere, the
PCT folks have established water caches, jugs of water stored in the
bushes or in small, open sheds to keep the sun away. Most welcome
today is the well-stocked cache at 13 miles out. Here, we pull up
for lunch, then water-up before heading on north. Sign on the shed
reads, "PCT Class of 2008." Thanks, Pacific Crest Trail Association
(PCTA)!
Earlier in the day, Gordon had left a message for both Slider
and Sheltowee concerning new fires that will be causing
trail closure just to the north. Apache Peak is on fire, around
which the trail passes. As we approach the Pines to Palms Highway,
our destination for the day, below we see the green U.S. Forest
Service truck leaving the trail crossing. The forest ranger had just
posted a hand-written cardboard sign on the kiosk there announcing
trail closure for the next 50 miles north.
Gordon is here, as is Meadow Mary. Gordon to pick us up,
and Meadow Mary to stock the water cache just inside the
gate.
We waste no time heading down to Paradise Cafe--for their grand Jose
burger. After, we return to the trailhead to pick up Alien march,
who'd asked for a ride on up to Idyllwild, where Dan, Kevin, and
I'll hole-up for a day's rest. We all dearly need a good hot
bath--and a day off.
"There must be quite a few things that a
hot bath won't cure, but I don't know
many of them."
[Sylvia Plath]
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Friday--May 2, 2008
Trail Day--010
Trail Mile--00/0150
Location--San Jacinto State Park Campground, thence to
Idyllwild
Idyllwild was full up last, so we pitched at the San Jacinto State
Park Campground. A cool night with no wind. Quiet and
comfortable--and baths in the bath house!
This morning we manage a room at the Idyllwild Inn. Kind, sweet
smile from owner, Emily. "Bring your dirty clothes in, we'll wash 'em."
beams Emily. She puts us in #7, a quaint, rustic cabin, complete
with fireplace and ricked firewood, clean and neat. Delicious
breakfast at the Red Kettle. Nice, friendly trailtown. Not heaven
though--at least one old curmudgeon. Boldly written (on the banner
below "Welcome 2008 PCT Hikers"), appears, "And thanks for starting
the forest fires!" Mention of the mischief to John, postal clerk,
has him concerned and the least upset. Ditto for the sweet lady at
the pharmacy. Idyllwild likes and very much appreciates PCT hikers.
The remainder of the day is spent updating journals, soaking tired,
tender feet in hot Epsom salts, enjoying a fine pizza--oh, and a
couple tallneck Sams.
"The sovereign invigorator of the body
is exercise, and of all the exercises
walking is the best."
[Thomas Jefferson]
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Saturday--May 3, 2008
Trail Day--011
Trail Mile--13/0163
Location--Hike from Falls Creek Road/Snow Creek Canyon to
Whitewater Preserve (The Wildlands Conservancy Fish Hatchery)
Whitewater Canyon Road
Due to the fire on Apache Peak, which has caused trail closure
affecting over 50 miles of trail, we've had to move on north today,
skipping the San Jacinto Mountains.
We've had a very much needed rest in Idyllwild, the stay most
enjoyable. Idyllwild is definitely a hiker friendly trailtown.
Gordon finally gets us collected and loaded up around ten. Dan has
already gone through a pair of shoes on his hike from Point Loma,
and needs to stop at the General Store for some Super Glue to attach
his gaiters to the new GoLites he's just purchased. It's a long
winding climb up and then down to I-10 and Cabazon--thence to Palm
Springs. We're finally on the trail north, north of I-10, around
noon.
Looking behind us now we can see Fuller Ridge, the northern-most
(snow-covered) mountain we've had to bypass. A report received this
morning indicates the fire to be 70 per cent contained, and that the
trail may be open again by the 7th or 8th. From our starting point
here at Falls Creek Road, we'll hike on north for the next few days,
allowing time for the trail to reopen and for the high-mountain snow
to melt.
The trail today soon takes us under I-10. In the cool shade of the
underpass, Trail Gorillas Don and John (local members of the PCTA)
have cached an ice-filled cooler of pop for PCT thru hikers. Over 20
have already signed the cache register (no pun intended) today.
By noon we've climbed from the desert floor, up to Mesa Wind Park,
where hundreds of the three-prop wind-powered turbines are cranking
in the wind. At the park office, and at the invitation of the Mesa
Wind Park folks, we take our lunch break. An air conditioned
conference room, a table to sit, and a fridge stocked with ice cold
bottle water--really roughing it, eh!
By a little before five we've descended into Whitewater Canyon, and
in short order we're at the Wildlands Conservancy Fish Hatchery
where Gordon's already reserved a campsite for us. In the campground
are Brian and Lisa, who've come out from San Diego to offer some
special trail magic. They're set up for grilling burgers, are
stocked with cold pop--and watermelon for desert. Hey, we're
invited! Thanks Brian and Lisa!
Lots of hot sand, little shade, and plenty of climbing today. A
tough but rewarding day.
"Hark to it calling, calling clear,
Calling until you cannot stay
From dearer things than your own most
dear
Over the hills and far away."
[William Ernest Henley]
|
Sunday--May 4, 2008
Trail Day--012
Trail Mile--20.7/0184
Location--Mission Creek Trail Camp
Our stay here at the Conservancy facility has been
grand. The whole place whizbang new, with spacious campsites, nearby
restrooms, and very competitive rates--free!
A cool, clear morning, we're out and hiking a little after seven,
the earliest hit-the-trail time for us so far.
The PCT leads out and up Whitewater River Canyon, from where it
proceeds to climb the East Fork, Mission Creek, a distance today of
twenty-plus, almost entirely up, from elevation 2,450 to 7,950, a
vertical climb in excess of one mile.
I hike some today with Alien March, Sauerkraut, and
Tyler. Late morning, Slider has another blowout, but this
one not involving the feet as has been the problem
previously. Suffice to say he's slowed way down and has started
moving really funny. Well, anyway, just go to my poetry page and dig
around till you find the ditty, Hiker's Scourge. That'll explain it!
The scene presented today is not one of beauty, rather one of
scorched, barren earth. A raging fire swept up and through here in
the recent past, burning everything in its path, so it seems did the
earth burn too. Near the upper canyon we cross from the San Gorgonio
Wilderness into the San Bernardino National Forest. Spared by the
fire, the transition here is abrupt, from one of stark desolation to
that of forested beauty.
Late evening and still climbing, Sheltowee, Slider, and I
reach our camp for the night. Gordon has arrived and is waiting, to
tell us of his adventure for the day--up the steep, rutted road to
Mission Creek Trail Camp. Seems he had a few brush-ins, what with
his low-clearance running boards--and a few not so low rocks. The
rocks won. He was unable to open the right-side door until a bunch
of hikers jumped up and down, bending the running board back down to
where it belonged--a bit battered and still bent, yet functional.
A very cold evening, but we've a fine hot meal, prepared by
Slider and Sheltowee. This has been the most demanding
hiking day so far.
"Short is the little time which
remains to you of life. Live as on a
mountain."
[Marcus Aurelius]
|
Monday--May 5, 2008
Trail Day--013
Trail Mile--15.7/0200
Location--Broom Flat Road, thence to Big Bear Lake, Big Bear
Frontier Resort
The night started cold, then got colder. This morning my Suunto Core
ABC wristop reads 25 degrees, brrr! Slow getting up and going. Lots
of hot coffee, to warm my innards and my sticks-for-fingers hands.
The hike today will not compare to that of yesterday, much shorter
and flatter. I wait to see Gordon off and wish him well on getting
out. In a short distance, the trail and the road meet. I can hear
the music, the great songs about the trail, recorded by Jim
Walkin' Jim Stoltz. Then I see Gordon again, standing, looking
toward the trail, lost to the trail, totally content. He's got all
the van doors open, all the speakers crankin'. It's a very emotional
time as I cross the road. What's going on here is a mutual feeling
of love and respect--and shared understanding. No need to speak,
just a solid hug, and a nod, that does it.
Today we near Big Bear Lake, and close-up civilization. The trail
winds and works around, but below and along are many road, power
lines, and dwellings.
Gordon has dropped down from the main paved road and has worked his
way a mile or so over another runningboard bender to where the trail
crosses, there to pick us up for the evening. We've 200 miles behind
us now--o'er the PCT.
|
"I owe
it all to the salt of the earth,
and the friends along the way."
[Jim Walkin' Jim Stoltz]
|
Tuesday--May 6, 2008
Trail Day--014
Trail Mile--19/0219
Location--Van Dusen Canyon Road, thence to Frontier Lodge, Big
Bear Lake
We've found great lodging in Big Bear Lake at Frontier Lodge. We'll
return here tonight and again tomorrow night, as we hike the huge
horseshoe around Big Bear Lake.
Gordon has us back on trail a little after eight. He'll be seeing us
at lunch, at ten miles out where the trail crosses CA18. We're all
hoping Slider can make the ten, and continue the remaining
nine for the day, as he is suffering much pain from a very large
blister on the ball of his right foot. Dr. Kill Me Quicker waved his
magic wand over it last evening and again this morning--but we'll
see.
A short way into the hike this morning the trail drops down into
Arrastre Creek Canyon. The canyon is lush, the creek running the
coolest clear water. Here in this canyon reside the most magnificent
evergreen, perhaps even more majestic than the virgin stand of
hemlock in Stover Creek near Springer Mountain, Georgia. I recall
being in total awe when I first saw the huge hemlock there. Here in
Arrastre are ancient Ponderosa pine and white fir. My reaction is
the same. I stand and gaze in silence. It is as if there are grand
sky-hinged cathedral doors opening before me, as if I am entering
Nature's very own place of worship. The trail weaves back and forth
among these towering giants. Pictures cannot begin to describe their
majesty. You must come here and experience their presence for
yourself.
Where the trail crosses CA18, Gordon is waiting--time for
lunch. While relaxing and enjoying our respite, up drives Erik
the Black. Erik lives in Big Bear and comes up often to meet
and greet PCT hikers. He's up today to place a small sign by the
trail announcing the availability of his new PCT Atlas. If you've
looked at this year's list of sponsors, you know that Erik is
supporting the old Nomad. I've been test driving his new
guide to help us up the trail, and it has proven to be most helpful;
thanks Erik!
A good climb to end the day, through jumbles of baseball-size
rocks. Been a tough day, but I make it fine--so does Slider!
"It's the beauty that thrills me with
wonder,
It's the stillness that fills me with
peace."
[Robert W. Service]
|
Wednesday--May 7, 2008
Trail Day--015
Trail Mile--18.2/0237
Location--Crab Flats, Thence to Frontier Lodge, Big Bear
Lake
Another grand night at the frontier. We need an early start
as there's a long roadwalk today, but despite our best
efforts we're not on the trail until after eight. Within the
hour our paths cross with that of the Pearl Girls.
They are One Step, Blue Butterfly and Guardian
Angel. I linger and chat with Blue Butterfly.
A good exchange of energy.
As we work our way around Big Bear, the trail climbs,
offering sweeping views down and across Big Bear Lake--to
the snow-capped peaks beyond. Finding the perfect spot, I
take a panoramic shot with my little Canon.
Just ahead of us an intense forest fire swept clean
thousands of acres last September, closing the trail, and so
the roadwalk re-route.
We're hiking into another cool, clear day, helped along by
the gentle breeze, making the roadwalk a most pleasant
experience. Gordon is right here on the road with us, bumpy
though it is, and he pulls on ahead every hour or so to
await our arrival. Toward day's end the road bails off the
mountain, down to Holcomb Creek. Gordon is here and we call
it a day.
What we thought would be a shortcut back to Big Bear turns
out a round-about scenic tour, which includes a five minute
close-up of logs being loaded on a timber truck. We're the
captive audience (loader and truck are blocking the road).
We finally arrive back at Big Bear early evening.
|
"Above me spreads the hot, blue mid-day sky,
Far down the hillside lies the sleeping lake
Lazily reflecting back the sun."
[Amy Lowell]
|
Thursday--May 8, 2008
Trail Day--016
Trail Mile--11.5/0249
Location--Deep Creek Canyon near Deep Creek Hot Springs
Getting out of town days are always chaotic. Today is the day to
check out of Frontier Lodge, but before loading and leaving we make
a trip to K-Mart for a few things--a large pan for cooking our beans
and pasta, and some bins to organize our kitchen and personal
items. Back at the lodge now--dang, seems we've taken up residence
here. Load after load of "stuff" must be collected and organized
(into the new bins), then hauled to the van. The van was (I say:
WAS) Gordon's home. Slowly but surely he's become pretty much
displaced. "Who shoved all that stuff up in there yesterday?" Gordon
asks. "One end of my bed is pushed up so far I don't have room to
lay down anymore." Oh boy, sorry, Gordon!
The drive back to the trail takes two solid hours, over rough,
two-track ruts in some places. The custom running boards on the van
are totally shredded, the braces busted loose, the once very nice
aluminum diamond-plate bent and fractured beyond repair. To have had
Gordon come in to support us at this nearly inaccessible place was a
very bad decision. Gordon's always game though, and we've taken
advantage of him. That's got to stop. In the past, when his sister,
Sue, was still alive, they had a rule not to venture off paved
roads--a good rule. We must consider returning to that rule, before
we wreck Gordon's van entirely.
We're finally back on the PCT a little before three. Easy enough
hiking. The trail leads on down Holcomb Creek, then climbs the
canyon wall to cross up and over into Deep Creek. Deep Creek Canyon
is properly named, as the narrow, near-vertical walls add effect to
the sheer depth. Along, the trail has been carved from the canyon
face, crossing cliffs of solid rock in some places. As dusk
approaches, and as we become the least apprehensive about finding a
place to set camp for the night, the most remarkable
once-in-a-lifetime (trail lifetime) experience happens. I'm hiking a
few paces ahead of Sheltowee, who is ahead of Slider
a step or three. We're happily clacking along, each in our own
little world, when Sheltowee shouts, then abruptly pulls
up. In the time span of no more than a second or two, and between
us, a snake rolls down the bluff wall to plop in the middle of the
trail right. It's coiled in a ball, its body wrapped around a
mole. No concern for us, just the task of squeezing the life out of
the mole, which it's apparently just bit hold of. We huddle around
in disbelief. I grab my camera. Sheltwee and Slider
both go for theirs. During the next three or four minutes we each
shoot the coiling, recoiling scene--and the futile effort made by
the mole to escape. Oh yes, the snake wins! Please remember to check
out my photo album in a week or so--amazing video, absolutely
amazing.
Just before sunset the canyon opens the least bit, to allow a small
knoll, where upon we quickly ascend to pitch on the small flat-spot
crown for the night. A short but very eventful day.
"The true mystery of the world is the
visible, not the invisible."
[Oscar Wilde]
|
Friday--May 9, 2008
Trail Day--017
Trail Mile--25.5/0275
Location--Lake Silverwood State Recreation Area
A cool but very relaxing, quiet night, the first, believe it or not,
that we've camped unsupported. Another glorious day; we break camp
and get going a little before seven.
We're all excited this morning, anticipating our arrival at Deep
Creek Hot Springs. We tried to make it in last night but ran out of
daylight. Short hike this morning; we're at the springs before
nine. No disappointment here. Lovely, pristine geothermals. The
locals know they're here, but have kept them clean. Two great hot
pools, one directly next the creek. The three of us go for that
one. A dare sets me to diving into the frigid creek, from there to
swim back to the hot pool. Invigorating is the word to describe the
experience. A double dare puts both Sheltowee and
Slider into it. We all whoop and holler--it's definitely a
hoot!
The hike today is segmented, a very nice change of pace. It'll turn
an impressive mileage day too, the fun diversions keeping it short.
Next diversion: The road crossing at CA173. Trail angels Marlene
and Meadow Mary are both waiting--and of course,
Gordon. Many hikers trekking along today, and many stop for
refreshments and a break from the heat.
We're away by one, and away to the next diversion: a short hike then
a roadwalk along CA173, where Gordon meets us with cold Gatorade.
Then it's the final diversion, a climb from the arid desert floor,
up then around Lake Silverwood, a shaded, crystalline, high-held
impoundment of Cleghorn River.
At dusk we're approaching the lake campground where we'd planned to
stay the night, but being the start of the weekend, the place is
full. We do squeeze in, however, next the trail, at an equestrian
site.
|
"As the weary traveler sees
In desert or prairie vast,
Blue Lakes, overhung with trees
That a pleasant shadow casts."
[Henry Wadsworth Longfellow]
|
Saturday--May 10, 2008
Trail Day--018
Trail Mile--13.1/0288
Location--I-15 Trail Crossing, Cajon Pass, thence to Best Western
Motel
Cools down quickly in the desert. Dropped to 39 degrees last
night. Warm and comfy in my new Mountain Hardwear Phantom 32 bag,
though. Great night's sleep.
We've a short climb first thing, up and out of Cleghorn Canyon, then
down and out of Lil Horsethief Canyon. A final climb takes us over
to Crowder Creek. There we descend to Cajon Pass, a busy crossing
for commerce; crushing commercial traffic both directions on I-10,
and B&N and UPAC hauling both ways, seven diesel locomotives pulling
the grade through the pass.
We're in a little before one. Trail marker says .4 to McDonalds. Oh
yes, double cheeseburger(s) and biggie fries here I come.
Dan's cut a deal at Best Western. Much needed rest for all of us.
|
"Hold fast to dreams, for if dreams
die, life is a broken winged bird that
cannot fly."
[Langston Hughes]
|
Sunday--May 11, 2008
Trail Day--019
Trail Mile--13.3/0301
Location--Swarthout Road, thence to Snow Canyon above/by
I-10, and finally, to our camp below Fuller Ridge
The afternoon and evening last at Best Western, Cajon Pass,
was much needed. This morning I clear out their muffins and
coffee.
Another glorious day in the desert: a million-mile-deep,
blue-perfect sky, and a cool breeze--perfect!
Where we broke out of Crowder Creek Canyon yesterday, to
reach I-15, and where the old roadway (and even older
wagonway) of nearly a century ago followed down--here we
begin our trek anew this morning by an old monument long
since passed by. Inscribed on its cracked, sun-bleached
surface are the words, "To the Santa Fe and Salt Lake Trail
of 1849, in honor of the brave pioneers of California."
First out this morning, an interesting hike, through a 200
yard tunnel/drainage under I-15. Dan's able to maintain cell
phone contact the whole way. The cell folks, indeed, have
the interstates covered, above and below.
This will prove Slider's day for snakes. I'm right
with him for two, the first, a respectable rattler. The
final one he confronts later in the day is directly on the
trail, and Slider doesn't see him till he's taken
that can't-come-back step. Sheltowee and I are
above on a switchback, maybe 50 yards distant, and we can
both hear Slider's expletives-deleted!
Through the I-15 tunnel, we still have the BN&SF and the
UPAC tracks to get over. Just above the tracks presents the
perfect spot to photograph the colorful team-coupled
locomotives hauling the freight through. Dan and I both stop
to get a shot of one passing through.
Our hike today will be segmented, a short five miler up the
ridge from I-15 to Swarthout Canyon Road. It's an
invigorating climb up, around, then down. Gordon is waiting
at the road.
Here we load and head back to Snow Canyon Road at I-10, the
northern end of the trail segment we'd skipped earlier due
to the fire on Apache Peak. We'll hike this 55 mile section
north to south in hopes the trail might again be open
through the burned section.
Gordon has us with packs up and climbing a little after
three. Above us now are snow-capped peaks and ridges. We're
climbing steady, from 2,500 feet, to top out (hopefully
tomorrow) at over 9,000 feet.
It's up and up, toward Fuller Ridge.
By dusk we've managed to reach a small saddle at elevation
4,200 feet. Setting camp for the night is difficult, what
with the 25-30 mph wind. I get my tent pitched, slap
together a cheese sandwich, roll in, then call it a day.
"Over every mountain there is a
path, Although it may not be seen from
the valley."
[Theodore Roethke]
|
Monday--May 12, 2008
Trail Day--020
Trail Mile--19.4/0321
Location--Saddle Junction
We're all up early, a little after five, trying to break
camp in the relentless wind. Last night my fly blew
completely off my tent. Never suffered such a problem
before, over countless nights in the wilds.
The climb of last evening continues. Shleltowee
stops at the first stack of boulders, away from the wind
where he tends to his tender feet. Below, I can see
Slider still struggling with his tent.
By nine I've broken across the lower end of Fuller Ridge at
7,000 feet. I'm above the clouds, well above the clouds,
which engulf the entire I-10 corridor below, to Palm Springs
and beyond. By eleven I'm into the final pull on up to 9,000
feet, near the shoulder of San Jacinto Mountain. Here I
rest, and wait for Sheltowee and Slider to
complete their ascent. They wake me around one and we hike
together through lingering snow drifts, on down to Saddle
Junction.
Our camp tonight is at 8,100 feet. The cold, harsh wind,
often resident of these high places has come to spend the
night with us. In the topmost of the pine does it shout
forth its passing gladness. Pitched now in the lee of an
enormous longleaf, I need place rocks over my fully driven
stakes to hold my tent down. Another cheese sandwich and
this day is done.
"Wind of the East, Wind of the West,
wandering to and fro,
Chant your songs in our topmost boughs,
that the sons of men may know
The peerless pine was the first to come,
and the pine will be last to go!"
[Robert W. Service]
|
Tuesday--May 13, 2008
Trail Day--021
Trail Mile--22.5/0343
Location--CA74, thence back to Best Western, Cajon Pass
I am so thankful to be blessed with such amazing endurance and
stamina at near age 70. To be blister free, to have my knees and
feet not ache, to have my back lifting, carrying effortlessly, to
find my legs once again under me, strong and responsive--though I'm
again a year older, it's a blessing, a true blessing.
The wind has mostly passed on through, leaving the
temperature here above the clouds at 39 degrees. I work with haste
to break camp before my fingers turn to useless sticks.
Here at Saddle Junction we had hoped to find the trail open
down and through the recently burned area. But alas, the sign placed
by the USFS tells us we must use the detour--down Devil's Slide,
through Idyllwild, and from there, a roadwalk back to the trail
crossing at CA74. This we'd hoped to avoid by hiking on north for a
number of days, giving time for the fire to be fully extinguished. A
good plan; just didn't work.
So this morning we turn from the PCT, to the trail down to
Idyllwild, and the long roadwalk.
Down now, in downtown Idyllwild, time for breakfast. Ah, and
we pass right by the Red Kettle. Oh yes, in we go. Coffee, corn beef
hash, eggs and pan-fried taters. High octane jet fuel--a little more
coffee, ma'am!
By four, we've knocked out the roadwalk. Lots of fun looking
for tossed coins. Dan finds the first, a penny. By day's end I've
found two cents. It has turned hot and the tarmac is worrying the
old doggies. A mile or so from the end, both Dan and Kevin stop and
make repairs to their road-weary feet.
It's a long, congested drive back through San Bernardino, then on to
Cajon Pass, near where we'll continue our journey north.
|
"And He--He followed--close behind--
I felt His Silver Heel
Upon my Ankle--Then my Shoes
Would overflow with Pearl."
[Emily Dickinson]
|
Wednesday--May 14, 2008
Trail Day--022
Trail Mile--00/0343
Location--Blue Ridge Campground
We've decided to take a zero-mile day today, to rest a
little from the big pull up on Monday and the roadwalk
yesterday. Staying the night again at Best Western was a
no-brainer (Dan managed another deal for us). Great place,
spacious room (three double beds no less), good folks.
Checkout is eleven; we manage to get loaded and rolling by
twelve. It's a short drive to Wrightwood where we stock up
on groceries for the next three or four days.
Slider has broken the tip on one of his hiking
sticks, so I head for the hardware store to use their vice
to replace it while he's grocery shopping. I have the
broken tip banged off and a new one driven back on in no
time. Dan's finally getting a cell signal here in town, so
he's busy with scout business.
By the time we get out of Wrightwood it's mid-afternoon. Our
stay will be at Blue Ridge Campground tonight, a freebie, no
hookups, no water, but a fine spot, Gordon informs us. Map
shows a paved road leading up (to the campground at 7,600
feet) but there are more potholes than pavement--slow going
for the three mile climb. Finally arriving, we find we've
got the place to ourselves. By now, we've reduced camp setup
to a science. Out comes the little folding table, our cook
stove, cooler, kitchen bin, water can, folding chairs--and
the coffee.
I've a fire going in the fire ring in no time (it's cold at
7,600 feet!). Coffee's on, feet are up, supper's cookin'. Well
now, this is really roughing it!
Relaxing here by the fire, content, tummy topped off, the
horizon framed by the ever deepening shadows across far
mountains, I think of this day, a day of such ease, and I
think of so many other days on the trail, days that try a
man's soul--and so, should I not be thankful. Thank you,
Lord, thank you for all these blessings.
"...trying to understand how you
must feel to embark on such a journey,
how exhausting and yet exhilarating it
must be, and how there are days that you
are able to walk a steady gait with such
energy and purpose, and days that you
must labor and slow down to overcome the
difficulties of the trail, the joys, the
frustrations, but in every day feeling
the overwhelming awe of being surrounded
by, and a part of, God's creation."
[Linda CyWiz Stolte]
|
Thursday--May 15, 2008
Trail Day--023
Trail Mile--20/0363
Location--Start at Blue Ridge Campground, end at Swart Canyon
Road,
thence return to Blue Ridge Campground
We've got a 20 to hammer out, so we're up and out by seven. The hike
today will be from north to south, from the campground back to Swart
Canyon Road where we ended our northerly progress on the 11th--from
where we returned to fill in the bypassed trail section to the
south.
The day starts with a steady climb, on up to 8,100 feet at Sheep
Pass. All along are sweeping views down into the San Bernardino
Valley on one side, and Cajon Pass on the other.
Trekking south as we are today, do we meet many northbound thru
hikers. First is Lucky, then Brandon and Laurie, Next,
Princess of Darkness, Disco, Brian, Christina,
Carbo, Jellybean, Blacksnake, and
Southern Man. Then comes Sly, Sarong and his
brother, Hans, then Grandpa Kilt, Hiking Bare
and Truant, Chase, Gopher, Prison Rob,
Just Ben, Vanity Fair and her daughter,
Breaking Wind. Later in the day comes Jenny, Ken, Delray,
Boomer, Medicare Pastor, and White Buffalo.
Whew, what a busy trail!
We've been hiking the extremes today, from the high elevation
snowpack, exposed to the cold, howling wind, thence down to the
scorching heat and blistering sun of the desert. Are such times not
made for memories--such blessed days in these mountains!
"...however weary, should one faint by
the way who gains the blessings of one
mountain day;
whatever his fate, long life, short
life, stormy or calm, he is rich
forever."
[Muir]
|
Friday--May 16, 2008
Trail Day--024
Trail Mile--18.7/0382
Location--Islip Saddle, thence to Buckhorn Campground
Another cool, incredibly beautiful day. 24 unbelievable days
of sunshine so far. We've been hiking in the San Bernardino
National Forest. Today we'll enter the Angeles National
Forest. And this will be Dan's day. We'll be climbing Mt.
Baden-Powell, named in honor of the man who started the Boy
Scout movement in England way back in 1908. Dan's an Eagle
Scout, runs Camp Daniel Boone near Asheville, North
Carolina, so he's very excited.
Our climb begins where CA2 is closed due to rock slides--at
6,550 feet. Climbing, we're soon in the snow, small patches
at first, then large drifts, which make upward progress slow
and very laborious. My GPS shows it's a little over a mile
to the summit, but we have over four miles of trail to
cover. We're able to follow the trail for awhile, mostly up
snowbanked switchbacks. After getting lost numerous times we
finally give up and turn to the mountain to stomp steps in
the snowpack and work our way straight up. Early afternoon
we finally reach the summit, which stands at a little over
9,000 feet.
Other thru-hikers have made it up with us this morning. We
linger, to take in the incredible 360, and to watch with
interest as Dan reverently creates, then video tapes a short
narrative about Baden-Powell and the creation of the Boy
Scouts. He then ends the clip with a motivational pep talk
to his camp staff--some 300+.
With CA2 closed due to rock slides, Gordon must drive 85
miles around to link back up with us on the other end. He
makes it and is waiting for us at Three Points, on the other
end of CA2. From Three Points we hike a few more miles then
call it a day.
|
"The scout training is effected by
encouraging the boy through his own
enthusiasm to develop himself as an
efficient citizen. To create his own
character and his individual self discipline
from within. This is education."
|
|
[Robert Baden-Powell, July 4, 1916]
|
Saturday--May 17, 2008
Trail Day--025
Trail Mile--21.5/0404
Location--5N04 near Sulphur Spring Camp
Gordon has us back on the trail at Islip Saddle at 7:30. At
the highway the trail leaves the trailhead to climb and roll
up, then around, back and down to the highway--like a ball
of gum rattling around the spiral in the old gumball
machine. Back at the highway, across, up, around, and down
we go again--the old gumball getting a workout today. Back
at the highway once again, we've a roadwalk due to trail
closure. Something to do with a frog, the endangered
yellow-legged frog. Seems the frog has precedent over the
PCT white-legged trekker, a not yet endangered species.
On the roadwalk, are there many snow drifts next the
road. We need ice for the cooler, so reaching Gordon, who's
waiting near the campground, he and I load and return to the
snow--to shovel the cooler full!
Being a Saturday, many day hikers are out on this (yet
another) cool, beautiful day. Along we meet Boy Scout Troop
#1 from West Los Angeles. Sheltowee captivates them
with a short lesson on telling time by the sun. Dan is a
master at motivational speaking. He has the knack of
lifting all to whom he speaks to their highest level, to
appreciate their true potential. It's always fun watching
him weave his magic spell--much the same, I suppose, as did
Baden-Powell as he encouraged young lads to seek and enjoy
nature--and the height of their own potential.
"Now I see the secret of making the best
person:
it is to grow in the open air and to eat
and sleep with the earth."
[Walt Whitman]
|
Sunday--May 18, 2008
Trail Day--026
Trail Mile--23.2/0427
Location--3N17, Santa Clara Divide, Messenger Flats
Campground
Great time last at Newcomb Lodge. Gordon drove us down. Hot
burgers, cool frosties. Perfect ending for the day.
This morning, we're not back on the trail till 8:30 (Gordon
drove us back down to the lodge for breakfast). A segmented
day, what with a stop for Gatorade (Gordon's at the six-mile
road-crossing) and then lunch at 14, where Nell's friend,
Phyllis does trail magic for all. So, even with this
relatively long-mile day, we're in way before dark.
We arrive Messenger Flats to find the campground
closed. "Won't be open till next week." says the Ms. Lady
Ranger as she lets herself out the campground, locks the
gate and drives away. From the gate to the campground is 500
yards, give or take. I jump the gate and walk over to take a
look. Nothing's been done to get the place ready, least I
can tell. Place remains pretty much as winter's left
it. Someone (like a thirsty hiker who was told they'd find
water here) has turned the faucet on--no water. Seems
strange, but then again, maybe not so strange. Gotta
remember, the USFS is in charge here. The campground will be
open when they say it'll be open. Hey, what's it to 'em if
hundreds of PCT thru-hikers are passing by. Yup, "...be open
next week." Yippee!
We move on down the road (by the trail) a few hundred yards
and set up camp on a small sandy knoll. All hikers coming
through behind us skip the campground and call it a day next
the knoll. Nell's friends have brought water in; thank
goodness. Of course, we've got water, but many who are
camping here tonight came in dry.
We get our efficient little camp set. Slider fixes
hot dogs, mac-n-cheese, and green beans. Way too much food. Moon
Pie and Gypsy Lulu end up helping us finish
it.
Come to find, our camp location is much better than that at
the campground, what with the great view down into the
valley below Moody Canyon.
"Patience and perseverance have
a magical effect
before which difficulties
disappear and obstacles vanish."
[John Quincy Adams]
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Tuesday--May 19, 2008
Trail Day--027
Trail Mile--23.7/0451
Location--Agua Dulce, thence to Hiker Heaven, Jeff and Donna
Saufley's home
The hike today is mostly down (except for the long ups) to Agua
Dulce. It's another cool, clear morning, but that changes as we
descend once again to the desert floor.
More gumball machine trail as the path winds in and out of every
little side canyon. There's still much color in the desert, bright
reds, brilliant oranges, dayglow yellows, and large patches of pure
white. Oh, and now with the desert really coming on, are there many
varying hues of brown, from light cinnamon/camos to deep, rich
chocolates. All bring attention to the otherwise barren landscape.
Gordon is waiting at the six-mile mark with cold drinks for all; a
welcome respite on this cool-turned-hot day. We've another break
near mile 14. It's really heating up now. We'd planned on lunch at
this crossing, but it's just too hot to eat. Another cold Gatorade
and I head across the tracks and back up the mountain. Nothing out
here taller than my knees, not a single tree, not even a respectable
bush, hardly a living thing. The desert is cooking now, the
unmistakable pungence of sage all along. The thermometer on my
Suunto wristop reads 105. But (Thank you, Lord!) with the humidity
here being nearly non-existent, the least breeze feels cool and
refreshing.
This last segment for the day passes oh-so-slowly, much climbing in
the loose sand, no shade, stifling heat. I sing and whistle along
(as best I can with parched throat). There's a welcome diversion
toward day's end at Vasquez Rocks, an amazing geological
formation. Walking in their shadow helps for the final mile or so.
Agua Dulce is a small community, few services. No problem though,
what with the van to shuttle us about, and Hiker Heaven, a pretty
remarkable home- yard-grown hostel. At the gated compound, I'm
welcomed with grand smiles by Donna L-Rod, and husband,
Jeff J-Rod Saufley. Wow, neat place. I'll tell you more
about it tomorrow.
Time now for a shower, thence to get my dirty, sand clogged clothes
in L-Rod's clothes basket--and head back downtown for
supper.
"Have you wandered in the wilderness,
the sagebrush desolation,
The bunch-grass levels where the cattle
graze?
Have you whistled bits of rag-time at
the end of all creation,
And learned to know the desert's little
ways?"
[Robert W. Service]
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Tuesday--May 20, 2008
Trail Day--028
Trail Mile--11.2/0462
Location--Agua Dulce, thence to Hiker Heaven, Donna L-Rod and
Jeff J-Rod Saufley
We wanted to get in some miles today yet stay another night at Hiker
Heaven, so we did a short eleven to Bouquet Canyon Road, where
Gordon loaded us at 11.30--to haul us right back to Agua Dulce.
And why would we want to stay another night in Agua Dulce? Well,
duh--Hiker Heaven is located in Agua Dulce! Oh yes, and let me tell
you a little about Hiker Heaven:
Jeff and Donna Saufley are hikers, maybe not hiker trash hikers like
yours truly, but they've packed far enough down the trail to know us
and to truly understand the culture that is long distance
backpacking.
In May 1997 Donna and Jeff opened Hiker Heaven, giving up (at that
point) any possibility for privacy in their personal lives. Since
then the Saufleys have hosted over 2,300 PCT thru-hikers. This year
they expect over 300, nearly the entire "Class of 2008." Tonight
alone they are hosting 60 of us.
Hiker Heaven is truly a remarkable place. The Saufley's backyard has
been totally displaced with (transformed into) hiker oriented
conveniences--like a mobile home complete with full kitchen, bath,
lounge area (computer/internet, telephone, T.V.), and bedrooms down
the hall, and tents, big tents, all over the yard, complete with
bunks. Put your name on the bathroom door to get in line for a
shower.
Jeff's thing is mechanical engineering, electrical engineering to be
exact--residential, commercial, industrial. But certainly he's
right at home when it comes to plumbing as well. Absolute wizardry
is the only way to describe how he keeps hot water running in the
shower 24/7--and it is 24/7 with 60 cruddy hikers passing through.
We can totally drain a hot water heater, believe me! Wizardry, the
only plausible explanation.
Finally, Donna's trail name L-Rod stands for "lightning
rod." Standing alone but not necessarily above the fray, she's taken
more than a few strikes. Seems she's had the audacity to boycott the
ADZPCTKO. And why? Well, because she and Jeff know better than
anyone about the "hiker wave" (a term coined by her) that is created
annually when hundreds of hikers begin their northbound PCT
thru-hike at the same time (right after ADZPCTKO), thence, and in
awhile, to converge on and overwhelm Hiker Heaven.
Anyway, nuff of this--just want to say thank you, Jeff and Donna,
for your kindness and generosity. Especially, thank you for your
friendship.
I know that hundreds and hundreds have passed your door. I know,
too, that in the future countless more that pass your way will
receive your loving care. And yet--I know--through all times that
your friendship to this old man will remain.
Oh, and yes, I'll see to it that you receive signed copies of both
my books, for your great library.
|
"The making of friends, who are real
friends,
is the best token we have of a man's success
in life."
[Edward Everett Hale]
|
Wednesday--May 21,
2008
Trail Day--029
Trail Mile--13.0/0475
Location--San Francisquito Rd., thence to Casa De Luna,
"Andersons," Joe and Terry Anderson, Green Valley
Another cool, glorious day. Days now should be really hot, the
afternoons here in this desert climate nearly unbearable to hike
through, but we've been blessed beyond what we may ever have hoped
or prayed for.
Much climbing now, as the trail continues trending generally
east/west, the mountains and their major canyons, generally trending
north/south. So, more gumball machine roll-arounds, up and over the
ridges, in and out of the side canyons; and so the trail goes, and
so does it work us today.
By early afternoon we've managed to reach San Francisquito Road,
where Gordon awaits to carry us down to Green Valley, and Anderson
Hostel.
We no more arrive, get our tents set in their backyard, than we're
informed by Terry that a fire is sweeping up the canyon toward us,
and that we needed to prepare for evacuation. Down comes my
tent. Ditto for Sheltowee and Slider. We load all
our stuff back in the van--and wait for the order.
Smoke's coming over the mountain now, chopper hovering above the
valley rim, spotter plane whizzing around. Hard to kill time, times
like these, but we manage.
A block or so over, when we were coming up to the hostel, I'd
noticed what looked like a really neat chop shop. Dan and I saunter
down now to take a look. Kind folks, Cindy and Phil. Both busy, but
they take time to greet us and invite us over. Cool stuff; an old
Chevy pickup, chopped top, old blue-flame, stovebolt six, split
manifold--really neat. And a full metal (not a fiberglass replica)
'30 bucket roadster (pics will be up soon). You gotta see this
stuff.
Well, the evac order never comes--fire's been contained. So we
unload and set up all over--just in time for the grand taco salad
supper, for 20 plus hungry hikers, prepared by the Andersons.
Showered up, full tummy, and now a bit of the old Laurel and Hardy
style humor--a little skit performed by the Andersons, and it's time
to call it a day. And what an event-filled day. Blessings. Oh yes,
true blessings!
|
"The most beautiful adventures are not those
we go to seek."
[Robert Louis Stevenson]
|
Thursday--May 22, 2008
Trail Day--030
Trail Mile--18.2/0493
Location--7N23A, Burnt Peak Road
We're up and moving early. Loaded and rolling, we make a stop at
Heart and Soul, a little mom-n-pop cafe/convenience just off Spunky
Canyon Road. Great breakfast burrito.
First off, a climb up the ridge above Lake Hughes for our first view
into the Mojave. A strange sight, rain clouds--and rain in the
desert. We've had 30 days with no rain, and now it appears we may be
in for it the next day or so--in the desert!
As usual, Slider has left us in the dust, yet, by day's
end, Dan and I beat him in. Gotta confess, we did some
blue-blazing. That being, taking a route other than the marked and
designated trail. Truth is, we had both tired of the up-and-around
and the down-and-abouts the trail had been taking, so we jumped over
to a forest service road that ended in the same place, and hiked it
in from there.
Great evening meal prepared by Slider, behind the van at
one of the few flat spots suitable for camp setup--right in front of
a "Do not Block" gate.
|
"What do you suppose will satisfy the soul,
except to walk free and owe no superior?
[Walt Whitman]
|
Friday--May 23, 2008
Trail Day--031
Trail Mile--21.6/0515
Location--CA138, Hiker Town Hostel
I was able to pitch out of the wind last, in a small sheltered spot
under some trees (Yes, we're hiking for a short time through trees
again!). During the night sometime, it began, just a drop or two on
my tent fly at first. Then, as time passed, and as the trees became
laden with moisture, down came the rain.
I tarry the longest time this morning, after looking out my tent
flap and seeing nothing in the cold, wet gloom, except cold, wet
gloom. Slider finally rousts me. Not easy rolling out from
a dry, warm bag, to the cold, wet ground. Oh yes, I've got my tent
down and packed in no time. No breakfast this morning, no coffee, no
morning duty--yet. It's just too cold and wet to bother. We hastily
load everything back in the van that we'd failed to put away last
evening, shoulder out packs, and set out into it. Gordon's up too,
and sends us off with his usual "Have a good one." But his
encouragement seems to do little for our dampened enthusiasm.
First comes a long, steady climb, pretty much as usual, but this
climb brings some surprises: more rain (we're in the clouds), then
sleet, then small, pellet-sized hail. The wind comes up and really
gets to whipping. The temperature drops, and the day begins making
for one of those "never a bad day" days (but not the best).
We've been hiking off and on the past week or so with a young chap,
Tyler Lion Heart Wagstaff. Our paths crossed again when he
came into camp late yesterday. He wasn't looking or feeling so
hot. Come to find this morning, he'd made several trips outside his
tent last night. On the trail this morning, Dan and I soon catch and
pass him--unusual.
The initial climb tends to be rather tough, what with the wind, the
cold sleet, and the wet trail. Near the ridgetop, Dan and I decide
to stop and wait around to make sure Lion Heart is okay. In
awhile he comes along. He' moving fine now, so we hike most the
remainder of the day together.
The clouds persist in their rushing by, driving the sleet at us,
creating a tiring, not the most fun hike. I stop and try getting a
video of the clouds in which we're suspended. Bailing off the
mountain, and at much lower elevation, we finally emerge from the
shroud of gloom and from the cold rain and sleet. At a road
crossing, near 14 miles for the day, Gordon is waiting. Window
cracked--"Get in the van and warm up." he orders. Don't have to tell
me twice, Gordon!
After the warmup, which gets my sticks-for-fingers working again,
we've seven miles of (more gumball) trail to finish the day at
CA138, West Antelope Valley--and Hiker Town, a weekend
retreat-turned-hiker-hostel. At the little office, near the main
compound dwelling, we meet Bob, the caretaker. We're informed by Bob
that the bunkhouse is full to overflowing (remember the hiker
wave?), but their are a couple of bungalow-like buildings for
rent. Dan and I take a quick look, then settle on a deal--for the
four of us, including Lion Heart (Gordon always stays in
the van).
In the evening now, Slider prepares dinner (Bob's let us
bring our Coleman cook stove in), we relax and enjoy much good
company. I have found Lion Heart to be a very interesting
young lad--take a minute and check out his
blog.
|
"Wander a whole summer if you can.
Thousands of God's blessings will search you
and soak you
| |