|
Trail Day—68/1
Trail Mile—1089/14
Location—Near Adams Gap, Cheaha Wilderness, Talladega National
Forest
Tom sends me off with a breakfast of fresh
(very local) eggs cooked in his old cast iron skillet right over the
fireplace embers. What a most memorable time I’ve had at Hatchet
Creek Trading Post. I know I’ll return to spend time here again. The
day greets me with its gray overcast and rain is most certainly just
behind the curtain. And indeed another encore begins just as I turn
onto SR77 to head for Porter Gap. Tom has given me a poncho and I
quickly cover my pack with it. The rain stays with me but not in the
torrential fits that I’ve had to endure in recent days.
I arrive at Porter Gap before noon, and the
rain, which has accompanied me for most all this walk through
southern Alabama, arrives with me. The roadwalk over the past few
days has introduced me to the beginning of the Appalachian Mountain
Range, but here at Porter Gap, the southern terminus of the Pinhoti
Trail I am at the true beginning of a marvelous network of trails
which will soon traverse this entire grand and glorious Appalachian
Mountain Range. The Alabama Pinhoti is the start of it and follows
the Talladega National Forest to the northeast, ending some 120
miles from here by trail at the Alabama-Georgia State line.
As I turn onto the Pinhoti I have ended my
journey to the west. From here I head north and east. The courtship
with this trail lasts for about twenty minutes, and then it's up,
up, up as I crest the first ridge before descending into Chandler
Gap. Here it is no longer raining, the precipitation having turned
to snow! The snow showers continue intermittently all day and into
the evening. And the flakes are still falling, turning the forest a
wonderland of white, as I pitch for the night near Adams Gap. I am
very fortunate to have the gloves that Mountain Man insisted
I take, for it is getting biting cold. I don’t attempt a fire but
instead, set up and roll in as fast as I can to get warm. It’s PBJs
for supper tonight. I am in the lee, the ridge forming a natural
windbreak, but the wind whips the tent most of the night just the
same, as the snow continues.
All that is gold does not glitter,
Not all who wander are lost;
The old that is strong does not wither,
Deep roots are not reached by frost.”
[J.R.R.Tolkein]
Tuesday—March 10, 1998
Trail Day—69/2
Trail Mile—1103/28
Location—Heated Restroom at the Chapel, Cheaha State Park,
Talladega National Forest
It is twenty-four degrees as I roll out this
morning. There is snow on my tent and all around. Tending to my
"morning duty" is very unpleasant under these circumstances. I am
very cold and my fingers feel like so many sticks before I manage to
break camp and shoulder my pack. As I get going again the snow also
get going again, but I warm up quickly enough as the Pinhoti lets me
have it. I’m definitely traversing internal packframe territory and
my snug sternum strap is coming in handy! This section approaching
Cheaha State Park, through the Cheaha Wilderness, is as demanding as
anything I've previously encountered on the AT and I've hiked that
grand old trail all the way into Pennsylvania. I immediately
encounter much sideslabbing on very steep terrain that has benefited
from little recent Pulaski work. This off-camber hiking quickly
mushes out my ankles. Leaving the sideslab the treadway now
traverses large, steep boulderfields flanked on both sides by
smaller rock gardens. The boulderfields require much scrambling and
slow my pace to a crawl. Upon entering the Cheaha Wilderness,
blazing which had been excellent starts playing hide and seek. With
no treadway to follow through the boulders and rocks and few blazes
I’m off the trail more than on. Here is a whole new experience for
me. The rocks and boulders present incredibly unstable treadway,
what with being covered with snow, which covers last fall's leaves.
My poor doggies are really starting to bark! The ascents and
descents are not the endurance tests that I’ll face further north,
but they are abrupt and steep.
The mountains here in Alabama are rugged and
beautiful beyond anything I had expected. I will need a few more
days than planned to hike this rugged terrain! The mountainsides are
forested in beautiful longleaf pine while the ridgelines are
predominately hardwood, making for spectacular open vistas. There
are views and lookouts all along. Oh, it is such a pleasure to be
back among mountain laurel and rhododendron again, but my search
continues for the elusive white pine.
I arrive at Cheaha State Park Lodge towards
evening and head for the restaurant. Though a stellar example of the
unfinest Hiker Trash, and entering a first class eating
establishment with exquisite table settings complemented by the
finest linen, I am greeted graciously by the hostess and then the
waitress, each with a welcome smile. I dine in the most luxurious
and eloquent atmosphere, the finest cuisine, and the view out and
across the mountains, which are now being bathed in the scarlet hues
of sunset, makes for a magic memory moment in this brief shutter of
time. As I near the final course, more coffee and dessert being
served, comes now Ranger Tim Whitehead. His wife who works in the
gift shop down by the main gate had told him of my arrival. He comes
to offer assistance as he explains that temperatures are predicted
to drop into the teens tonight. The lodge is being renovated and no
rooms are available for the evening. He kindly suggests an
alternative to the frozen snow-covered ground and the cold shelter
up the trail. Loading in his truck he takes me to the park chapel up
the way and unlocks the clean, spacious, warm and lighted men’s room
for me! I am most content, my tummy is full and I am snug as a
bug…life is good! Now isn’t this roughing it!
“Give me the luxuries of life and I will
willingly do without the necessities.”
[Frank Lloyd Wright]
Wednesday—March 11, 1998
Trail Day—70/3
Trail Mile—1118/43
Location—Base of Waterfalls north of Morgan Lake, Talladega National
Forest
Tim picks me up this morning and delivers me
to a trail that leads to Blue Mountain Shelter. He had told me of
another hiker who was also heading north on the Pinhoti, and here at
Blue Mountain Shelter I find his tent, pack and other belongings,
but he is nowhere around. I leave a note of introduction and my
tentative hiking schedule, hoping that we may have an opportunity to
meet and hike some together. I have been alone on the trail now for
seventy days and it tends to get lonely out here at times. I could
sure use some company for awhile.
The day starts clear and very cold but by
afternoon, and from the constant exertion demanded by the trail,
both the day and I warm up nicely. My hike is interrupted as I reach
Hillabee Creek. The creek is of fair width and depth and there is no
bridge…wading time, so it appears. I drop my pack and change to my
off-road running shoes to make the ford. On the other side I quickly
dry my feet and get my warm wool socks and boots back on. Here, as I
lie back basking on a large rock that is being bathed and warmed by
the sun, and as I look around, half observing, half daydreaming;
presents to me a very strange and perplexing observation. We have
all seen tree stumps in the woods, and I am looking at a tree stump.
But after a couple of takes, shifting from the daydream mode to the
observing mode, I realize that this tree stump is different than any
that I have ever seen before, for this stump is not at ground
level…but somewhere between ten and twelve feet up! My gaze is fixed
on it now. What is this! Why did someone cut this tree off ten feet
up? And as I look closer, how did someone cut this tree off
ten feet up! Here is a very narrow trail. No vehicles could possibly
get in here and there are no telltale spike splinters left by pole
climbers, and the top of the tree is gone! I finally give up trying
to figure this one out.
I pitch for the evening some distance north of
Morgan Lake at the base of a beautiful twin waterfall, probably one
of the tributaries to Hillabee Creek. In short order I get a very
comfortable warming and cooking fire going.
“Hiking for days [and weeks and months] by
one’s self can be very lonely.”
[Jan D. Curran, The Appalachian Trail—A
Journey of Discovery]
Thursday—March 12, 1998
Trail Day—71/4
Trail Mile—1132/57
Location—Private Hallway, Heflin Police Station
Are temperatures supposed to go below freezing
in Alabama in March? Okay, well how about down to 14 degrees? That
is the chilling news my little Campmor thermometer greets me with
this morning! I am very reluctant to roll out, but I do stick my
nose out, then tuck it right back in to go on snooze for another
half-hour…But finally the moment of truth, for here I am, and here
it is, so here we go! Brrrr! I tug my long johns on then it’s up and
over with the sweatshirt given me down in Florida by trail angels,
Paul and Doris Adams. My wool socks are already on but my boots have
decided to be the wrong size. I finally manage to break camp and get
chugging.
Today I meet the first backpackers on the
trail since the Boy Scouts in Florida! Coleman and Tina are both
really loaded down with winter gear. They are doing the Pinhoti in
sections and are out giving it another go. We have a long enjoyable
talk. Seems I can’t shut up! What a delight seeing someone else out
here and at a time I would never have predicted. I have managed to
postpone my “morning duty” until reaching Spears Store near Five
Points. I really believe steaming hot coffee never felt or
tasted so good!
I decide to set my sights on Heflin today and
I go at it in earnest, but I no sooner get up the trail from Five
Points than I get lost. I finally manage to stumble on north and
down from Horseblock Mountain to US78. Here I try hitching a ride
into Heflin but have no luck as the traffic is flying, so I end up
walking the three miles to town. I head straight for the drugstore
to restock my coated aspirin, then on to the little downtown
mom-n-pop for super. To keep from getting hassled in these little
villages I have found it best to go straight to the police station
and introduce myself. This is to thwart the calls when they start
coming in…and they will come in. It always helps to keep the local
constabulary from getting all riled. The Police Chief here is Billy
Hugh Lambert. After a short conversation with Chief Lambert I am
invited to spend the night in the hall leading to the public
bathroom. Well now, this may not sound like much, but let me tell
you…this is Hiker Trash five-star! The hallway is most like a room,
complete with plush carpet. There is a door separating the hall from
the front area, which I am permitted to keep closed and locked, and
the place is warm as toast. Oh, and right off this room (hall) I
have my own private bath!
I stash my pack and head the short
distance—this is the typical old southern-states downtown—to the
local Piggly Wiggly. Then it’s right back to my little private room!
It’s really turning cold. Chief Lambert said it would be down in the
teens again tonight. But I’m warm and snug (with my own security
guard) as I spread out to lounge in sheer luxury to spend the
remainder of the evening catching up on my journal entries.
“Too much of a good thing can be wonderful!”
[Mae West]
Friday—March 13, 1998
Trail Day—72/5
Trail Mile—1140/65
Location—Lower Shoal Shelter, Choccolocco WMA, Talladega National
Forest
After writing a short thank-you note to Chief
Lambert and handing it to the duty officer, I head down to Jacks for
breakfast. Here I load up on two eggs, bacon, cheese biscuits and
gravy and about half a gallon of coffee…for three bucks. I’m up and
nearly out the door when one of the counter gals comes over to ask
if I am the “Long Distance Hiker!” I’m given a phone number to call
the HoJo down by I-20. She said the call came in a little while ago
from another hiker. Must be the fellow that Tim had told me about
and the one whose gear I’d seen at Blue Mountain Shelter. Craston
Roberts, a fellow I had been chatting with in the adjacent booth
overhears this conversation and invites me out to his truck to use
his cell phone. He says, “Figure out which room and I’ll drive you
down!” In a moment I’m talking to Keith Pskowski and he gives me his
room number at HoJo’s. On the way down, I’m thinking, this guy had
to hike I-20 for near four miles to reach this interchange, for he
said he had walked there. I’m thinking, what sort of fellow am I
going to meet here!
In moments Craston drops me off at room #34. I
bang and bang on the door. Finally it opens and I am greeted by the
other nutso. Keith said that he would be ready to go when I got
here, but as I look, there are piles of clothing and a staggering
collection of other paraphernalia strewn from the bed, cascading
onto the floor, clear to the vanity counter and beyond. What am I
getting into here! By the time Keith gets all his things shoved into
his old rickety gargantuan pack it is time for lunch! I keep telling
him, “We gotta go, Keith…we gotta go!” He’s finally ready and we
head over to Taco Bell. The lunch crowd is now here and it takes
forever to get served. I’m really getting antsy about this whole
thing. Finally, sitting down to eat and as luck would have it, I
strike up a conversation with a couple of fellows who are working on
a microwave tower at the trailhead hear Cleburne. They offer us a
ride which is a lifesaver, but it’s still 2:00 p.m. before we’re
back on the trail.
We manage only eight miles today to pull up at
Lower Shoal Shelter. This is not good. Quite often I am
unsuccessful, but I make a concerted, unflagging effort to keep my
daily mileage around fifteen…or better if possible. So far, for the
entire seventy-two days I am averaging just slightly under sixteen,
and I am most pleased with that number. I have packed enough
provisions for five days, with a stretch perhaps to seven if push
comes to shove. My plans are to get on through the Alabama Pinhoti,
out of the Talladega National Forest, across Indian and Flagpole
Mountains, through the bushwhack at the state line, and on into
Georgia at Cave Spring. I know this is doable, but we gotta get
rolling. I should be another seven miles up the trail tonight. Keith
did reasonably well today but he is carrying entirely too much
weight.
The shelter here this evening is like an old
friend, for it is identical to one that I have slept in many times.
And that is the old shelter that used to be located just above the
spring on Springer Mountain. That shelter was long ago flown out by
the Army Rangers and now resides to serve in its retiring years on
the approach trail from Amicalola Falls.
“The woods are lovely, dark and deep,
But I have promises to keep,
And miles to go before I sleep,
And miles to go before I sleep.”
[Robert Frost]
Saturday—March 14, 1998
Trail Day—73/6
Trail Mile—1149/74
Location—Laurel Trail Shelter, Choccolocco WMA, Talladega
National Forest
We are way too late getting out and going this
morning. There is more traffic on the trail today than in the past
many months. We meet a group of scouts and talk with one of their
leaders, Mike Smith. Here we learn the origin of the unusual but
most pleasing name for one of the nearby side trails. It is called
the Chinabee Silent Trail, named in honor of those who constructed
it, students at the nearby Talladega School for the Deaf.
Bushwhacking around Sweetwater Lake we meet Jay Hudson. Jay is a
Director in the Alabama Trails Association. There is much to discuss
and as we talk, we also spend the next half-hour trying to keep from
sliding into the lake. The lake is way above its normal level,
taking the trail under and we have to bushwhack over blowdowns and
through brush nearly the entire perimeter. No doubt this is good
practice for what lies ahead near the Georgia line.
We manage only slightly over eight miles again
today to pull up at Laurel Trail Shelter. This is a fine shelter
with water nearby and plenty of firewood. Just before dark, Gray and
his son, Troy, come in and the four of us enjoy the evening together
roasting marshmallows. I am dismayed that this has been another
short mileage day, but considering our late start, dallying and
talking, and then bushwhacking around the lake, we did quite well.
“But our lakes are bordered by the forests, and
one is every day called upon to worship God in
such a temple.”
[James Fenimore Cooper, The Pathfinder]
Sunday—March 15, 1998
Trail Day—74/7
Trail Mile—1164/89
Location—Headwaters, Dry Creek, Dugger Mountain, Talladega
National Forest
We’re out late again this morning. Keith takes
off like a shot. I fall in step twenty paces behind. This is great;
we’re really truckin’. In three hours we’ve covered nearly nine
miles. Soon, there is this beautiful old log church at Shoal Creek
and we take a break to enjoy the peace and solitude that just seems
to prevail in the shadow of these serene old time capsules. There is
a social pavilion in the rear and lingering here is a very simple
task.
Keith has come up with a couple of flat tires
by now, so I take the point. Today I blunder into the biggest covey
of quail flushed so far on this entire odyssey, 16-18 birds. I’m
hiking along totally contained in my little daydream cocoon,
oblivious to little more than my rhythmic tramping, when World War
III breaks out right at my feet. In all these years I’ve never been
able to maintain even a minuscule of composure when these little
minefields explode. I don’t believe there is anything man has ever
devised that will accelerate any faster then these feathered
fellows, save a shotgun volley. And even that won't keep up with
them, at least launched from any blunderbuss I’ve ever shouldered. I
don’t know which is worse, just walking up on a covey and flushing
them or waiting as you creep forward, dog frozen and locked on
point, awaiting, to finally shudder when the birds erupt from the
ground. Dad was a marvelous flash of motion and precision at that
instant, seldom failing to get a double. I always froze, to nearly
collapse in a spent puddle of adrenaline. And this harvest of
nature’s bounty? There is just absolutely no better fare to grace
any table…even to set before a king. An old iron skillet, a
little fat and some cracker meal and you’ve got the makings of the
finest that Chef Palladin could ever serve up.
We pitch camp just before the big pull up
Dugger Mountain in a lovely cove with its fast-rushing stream and
plenty of firewood. The evening is delightfully warm, as has been
the day…the first day I've been able to go without thermal undies
for quite awhile. Keith is totally spent. This is only his tenth day
out and he is packing entirely too much. Much like a mule. Ahh!
There it is, Pack Mule! Keith, from now on you will be known
as Pack Mule, or just plain old Mule!
“[The Pinhoti]…trail stretches from Dugger
Mountain
on the north to the hospitable community of Friendship
on the south. In between lies some of the most
beautiful, least-trodden backpacking country in the
southeast.”
[Scott Deaver]
Monday—March 16, 1998
Trail Day—75/8
Trail Mile—1177/102
Location—Trailside, north of CR94 near Borden Springs, Talladega
National Forest
First thing this morning we have a hard pull
up Dugger Mountain, the second highest point in Alabama, This is a
tough climb to the rugged, rocky ridgeline. Nowhere in Alabama will
you find the Appalachians rising much above 2000 feet. Cheaha is the
highest at 2405. “That isn’t much of a mountain,” you say! And that
may well be true, but let me tell you this. You will be hard put to
find, throughout the individual mountain groups anywhere along the
Appalachian chain, any to compare with these in respect to
ruggedness, remoteness, flora and fauna diversity and sheer beauty,
*I know because I’ve hiked the whole range. “How can that be?” Do
this little exercise. Get your trail profile maps out. Go to the one
that shows Clingmans Dome, the highest point on the Appalachian
Trail. Now look at the contour changes encountered for a few miles
in either direction. Okay, now go to most any trail contour profile
for the Pinhoti Trail in the Talladega National Forest and look at a
few miles of this rascal! For now will come a marvelous revelation,
an enlightenment if you will! Let me ask you this. What difference
does it make, as far as the hiking experience is concerned, if you
are going through these gyrations at 5000 feet or at 1000 feet?
Sure, you’re not going to get a nosebleed climbing up and down in
the Cheaha Wilderness…but neither will you in the Great Smoky
Mountains National Park!
Coming off Dugger, we pass Terrapin Watershed
Lake. This lake, Choccolocco Lake, Coleman Lake and Sweetwater Lake
all have high earthen reservoir embankments to impound water during
periods of heavy rain, so the areas near the dams aren’t
particularly attractive due to apparent low water levels. But the
shorelines of these lakes undulate the rugged, picturesque mountain
shoulders, creating picture-book settings, the view from the dams
being totally unobstructed, panoramic. We pitch just north of CR94
near a happy little stream. The evening fire is a poor fire but I
manage to get a hot meal prepared. Pack Mule’s pack has got
to weigh at least fifty pounds. I have not a clue what all he’s got
squirreled away in there…but it isn’t food. Mule is out of
food, so I share my "porridge" with him. Rain seems to want to join
us all evening and into the night, but shy an invitation, it holds
off.
“Its highest peak stands a half-mile shorter
than the foot
of the Colorado Rockies; its deepest gorge could be stacked
20 deep inside the Grand Canyon. Superlatives of scenery
and natural history have rarely described the state whose
name partly stems from an archaic word for brush…Alabama
is the nation’s fourth-richest kingdom of plant and animal
species; in species per square mile, only Florida can match it…
Only two years ago, a near barren patch of rock—within 50
miles of the state’s largest city—presented eight undescribed
species of flowering plants.”
[William Stolzenburg]
Tuesday—March 17, 1998
Trail Day—76/9
Trail Mile—1183/108
Location—Protected Cove between Wolf Ridge and Rock Quarry
Mountain past Lanie Gap
Well, looks like it’s coming today, invitation
or not…the rain. And the forecast is for rain, 100%, pretty sure
bet! So it is, as I break camp and head on up Augusta Mine Ridge,
the rain begins. As I climb, the rain really starts pounding, the
wind driving a bitter cold. At Ferguson Memorial on top of Augusta
Mine I am exposed to its full rage. The gale-like wind, rain and
cold become nearly unbearable. I have packed out ahead of Mule
and now I’m concerned about the worsening conditions behind me, so I
move to the side of the trail and crouch in the lee against the wall
of a small rock overhang. Here under the ledge, I rig my poncho.
Mule pulls in ten minutes later, shivering uncontrollably and
soaked to the bone. We tie his tent fly to my poncho to enclose a
small area beneath the ledge. The wind is now driving the rain at
full gale force as it roars, howling and shuddering around and above
us. Our makeshift shelter is being ripped and attacked as the storm
increases in intensity. We are both soaked and the cold sets its
grip as we huddle together. The sky has turned dark as night and the
temperature continues to drop, turning the rain to sleet. I find
some dry sticks and leaves lodged in the cracks and crannies between
the rocks around us and am able to get a small fire going, aided by
a chip of fire starter that I have been toting along. We remain
huddled over this little bit of glimmer unable to move for more than
three hours as the storm continues to tear at our makeshift shelter.
By now it is three o'clock.
We can’t remain here much longer. We have got
to get down off this mountain and find a place to pitch in the lee
before dark. Surely this storm will show mercy and permit us to
break from its grip. Finally, the wind seems to tire, and as it
backs down a bit, we make a run for it. We’re able to get down into
a little cove in the lee and pitch our tents. I even manage to get a
pathetic little fire going again to prepare supper and to dry our
bodies a little before rolling in. This day has been a wild and
scary ordeal that will be remembered for a very, very long time!
Thank you Lord for seeing me through this one!
“There is a line by us unseen,
That crosses every path;
The hidden boundary between
God’s patience and his wrath.”
[J. Addison Alexander]
Wednesday—March 18, 1998
Trail Day—77/10
Trail Mile—1185/110
Location—Lamont Motel, Piedmont
We finish the remaining two miles of the
Official Alabama Pinhoti Trail at US278 by 10:30 a.m.
The forecast is for thunderstorms and
continued cold wind. We‘ve got that in spades. Mule wants to
hitch a ride into Piedmont, get provisions and stay overnight there.
I want to head on north. I figure I’m at least a day behind already.
Mule offers to treat me to supper and put me up in his room,
so reluctantly I go for the deal. We try hitching for over an hour
with no luck, then end up walking four miles to the nearest gas
station. Here we get a ride to Piedmont with Buck Jennings, the
station owner. We have a fine meal at Ranch House and Mule
gets the provisions he needs to get into Cave Spring, Georgia. I
thoroughly expect the next couple of weeks, from here on into
Springer Mountain to be a problem weather-wise, but resolve to just
take it a day at a time and hope for the best.
“There are some who can live without wild
things, and some who cannot.”
[Aldo Leopold]
Thursday—March 19, 1998
Trail Day—78/11
Trail Mile—1192/117
Location—Springhead, end of new trail, Indian Mountain
We’re greeted by fog and mist as we leave
Lamont Motel. There’s no luck hitching again so we’re faced with
another three-plus mile roadwalk back to Spring Garden Station.
We’ve hiked nearly eight miles now in the last two days, not an inch
of which has been on the trail. I should be leaving Cave Spring,
Georgia by now and it’s at least another day to the state line. At
the station we’re in luck. The Rhinehart brothers, Robert and Jeff,
give up a ride back to the trailhead parking lot on US278. It’s now
late morning as we head east on the highway for a short roadwalk to
continue the Pinhoti Trail north over Davis Mountain. Neither of us
sees the trail junction. We climb US278 all the way to the next gap
before I finally realize what has happened. So now we backtrack the
half-mile as I try not to get steamed. We’ve now managed to hike
almost ten miles to do a half-mile of actual trail!
The hike over Davis Mountain is very
enjoyable. As we make the ford at Hurricane Creek I can hear and ORV
in the distance. It comes to near where we’re crossing and stops.
Mule wades right through as I pull up to change to my running
shoes. Salem Church Road is right across the creek and as I come
along behind Mule he’s at the road talking to two men who
have just returned to their vehicle on the ORV. Here I meet Bill
Burks and Mike Hinson with the Alabama Department of Conservation,
State Lands Division. They’re both working on the Forever Wild
program which has been successful with recent land acquisitions for
the Pinhoti Trail, making it possible to continue the trail to the
Georgia state line. As I’m drying my feet and putting my boots back
on, I learn from Bill and Mike that in 1992, 84% of the voters in
Alabama passed the Alabama Forever Wild Land Trust Program. Through
a constitutional amendment this enabled funding of up to $15 million
per year through the year 2000 for setting aside wildlife areas.
Mule and I will be the first hikers passing through this
section. Some of the trail is completed, but tomorrow we’ll be
bushwhacking where the trail is not yet constructed. I’m given a
copy of their department’s great magazine Outdoor Alabama, in
which Mike Leonard’s fine article appears. They are excited to see
us, for tomorrow, R. Michael Leonard’s dream will become a reality,
for tomorrow it will happen, The Appalachian Trail Connection,
as Mule and I hike on into Georgia…and into Alabama hiking
history! What a remarkable coincidence meeting these gentlemen. What
farsightedness and what a grand program. Thanks—people of Alabama!
We make it to the end of the newly constructed
trail on Indian Mountain, and here, just below the last Pulaski cut
we pitch for the evening by a clear, cold-running spring. Tomorrow
we’ll be sighting over a compass and following Marty Dominy’s
redlined topo maps.
“Alabama to me is the biggest biodiversity
story
of North America today…This is the 20th Century
environmental story.”
[Paul Hartfield, Endangered Species Biologist,
USFS]
Friday—March 20, 1998
Trail Day—79/12
Trail Mile—1204/129
Location—Cave Spring, Georgia
Fortunate for us we are in a protected ravine
and we’ve both pitched in old blowdown holes. For during the night
one of the most intense electric storms that I have ever witnessed
crashes and reverberates through the mountains, passing directly
overhead. The lightning frequency is such that one can literally
read by it. As to the thunder, there is no silence but a steady and
continuous roll as wave after stampeding wave herds through. The
wind follows, pulsing in like fashion bringing bucket brigades of
rain slamming against my little shelter. The madness of it seems to
continue for hours though I am sure the time is much less. We both
roll out at first light. The storm has moved off to the east and
across the mountain and the sky is clearing above us. Departing
trail’s end, but before bushwhacking on over Indian and Flagpole
Mountains I stop to leave a note for the Alabama Trails Association
trail builders thanking them for their dedication and work, and for
this fine trail.
The wind remains, but the weather is clear for
this first bit of bushwhacking. Once on Flagpole Mountain there’s a
trail coming up from a cove below and we pass an old hunt camp. Here
we stop to rest for awhile and to enjoy the splendid view into
Georgia. The route as marked by Marty takes us over the top and
along the ridges and saddles. The area is rocky and thick with
brush, but the rugged jumble at the higher vantages provides
breathtaking vistas, the finest so far since the bluffs at Cheaha.
This indeed will be a grand finale to a most grand trail, the
Alabama Pinhoti Trail. Take her right over the top boys, that’s what
Myron Avery would have done!
I track back and forth for ten minutes or
better, trying to find a survey cut or some other evidence
indicating where the state line crosses. But there is none, so I
estimate as best I can where I believe it to be and Mule and
I linger and have a grand time building a rock cairn. We spend maybe
twenty minutes, but it takes us an hour and twenty minutes, for this
is also the line between the Eastern and Central Time zones…so we
lose an hour.
We reach Cave Spring by 2:30 p.m., get our
mail and have a good hot meal. Here we find out about the storm of
last night. It seems the storm continued southeast into Georgia
leaving a path of destruction and fourteen fatalities along the way.
In Murrayville, where the kind lady who has been transcribing my
journal entries teaches computer classes, the storm did incredible
damage. For, when she arrived at school this morning she found that
her classroom was completely gone, the school destroyed! The fact
that the storm passed in the middle of the night when no one was at
school prevented an unthinkable disaster.
Mule is just not up to this
bushwhacking and there is much bushwhacking ahead if I’m to stay on
the planned route for the Georgia Pinhoti. Much of the trail north
of here in the Armuchee Range and through the rugged Cohutta
Mountains to the east is yet to be completed. We’ll work up a
roadwalk so he can reach the Appalachian Trail at Springer Mountain
by a better route.
“Do not go where the path may lead, go instead
where there is no path and leave a trail.”
[Emerson] |